Wed 18 July – 12304 steps
We took an Uber into town at about 12. We started at Café du mond, where we tasted the famous beignets (French doughnuts) which are delicious. I could only eat one as they very filling. David happily scoffed the remaining pair. Interesting that their café au lait is chicory coffee, it tasted just like farm coffee.
We walked around the square and went into a beautiful, still operational Catholic Church. On the pavement outside the church were a dozen tables with palm readers and tarot card readers. For David, with strong roots in Catholism, this came as a shock. He reckons it is an indication of the freedom in America that these “heretics” can operate right outside the church. Of course, if you get a bad fortune from one of them, you can pop into the church to prayer. It could be the other way around.
We ventured further into the as yet unexplored areas of the French Quarter. There are lovely old buildings with beautiful railings and a lot of expensive galleries, soap shops, candy stores and gift shops. We stopped and had a drink where there was a jazz quartet. They had the same keyboard player we had seen on Bourbon street the night before, but rest of the group was different. I paid, including a 10% tip. The waitress returned, she threw the folder with my change on the table and told me that the tip had not been included into the total. At this point I was so gatvol of the constant reminders to tip, I picked up the money and left, leaving nothing for her.
I regained my composure as we wondered down to the French Market which had loads of stalls selling the cheaper jewelry, caps and T-shirts etc, mostly made in China. We didn’t buy anything there either.We stopped in at BB King’s Club and listened to a young girl with a stunning voice play some of the jazz classics. She also did an incredible version of Hallelujah, so we tipped her. We had a catfish starter to share. It tasted nice, but the texture of the fish was too soft for my liking.
We took a slow walk back to where we boarded our steamboat, the Natchez, for a dinner cruise on the Mississippi. We were stopped to have our photos taken as we boarded which of course they print and try to sell you for an exorbitant amount when you leave. Surely they can include the photo into the price and give it to you as a free memento when you leave. After all, they can’t undo the process of printing them.
It was, however, a very pleasant evening, jazz band and all. Unfortunately our fellow passengers were so loud we could not hear the commentary, so I learnt nothing. We did get to tour the engine room which pleased David.
Dinner was a buffet and I tasted a chicken and sausage gumbo. I really enjoyed it. Apparently it is all about the roux (it’s the graaaavy!) All the veggies were very sweet, including the green beans, confirming that the 2 main ingredients in American cooking are sugar and bread.
Aaahh moment of the day: Americans and their dogs # (lost count)
What I learnt: I think I have mentioned this before, but I don’t think tipping should be expected as a rule. I find the constant requests or reminders to tip, becomes rather annoying. I wish they would pay the staff more and return to a system where tips were an optional extra paid to “To insure prompt service”
I agree with Hugh Morris, travel news editor for the Telegraph, who wrote in his article, America’s tipping culture is out of control – why should visitors be forced to reward bad service?: ” When a waiter is friendly, alert and takes a keen interest in your evening they deserve to be thanked financially. Like presents, leaving a tip should be as enjoyable as receiving one. But when the tip is a done-deal before you’ve so much as made eye contact, then a gratuity – no matter how small – can feel begrudged.”