Author: kimspathway

Wed 18 July  – 12304 steps

We took an Uber into town at about 12. We started at Café du mond, where we tasted the famous beignets (French doughnuts) which are delicious. I could only eat one as they very filling. David happily scoffed the remaining pair. Interesting that their café au lait is chicory coffee, it tasted just like farm coffee.

We walked around the square and went into a beautiful, still operational Catholic Church. On the pavement outside the church were a dozen tables with palm readers and tarot card readers. For David, with strong roots in Catholism, this came as a shock. He reckons it is an indication of the freedom in America that these  “heretics” can operate right outside the church. Of course, if you get a bad fortune from one of them, you can pop into the church to prayer. It could be the other way around.

We ventured further into the as yet unexplored areas of the French Quarter. There are lovely old buildings with beautiful railings and a lot of expensive galleries, soap shops, candy stores and gift shops. We stopped and had a drink where there was a jazz quartet. They had the same keyboard player we had seen on Bourbon street the night before, but rest of the group was different. I paid, including a 10% tip. The waitress returned, she threw the folder with my change on the table and told me that the tip had not been included into the total. At this point I was so gatvol of the constant reminders to tip, I picked up the money and left, leaving nothing for her.
I regained my composure as we wondered down to the French Market which had loads of stalls selling the cheaper jewelry, caps and T-shirts etc, mostly made in China. We didn’t buy anything there either.We stopped in at BB King’s Club and listened to a young girl with a stunning voice play some of the jazz classics. She also did an incredible version of Hallelujah, so we tipped her. We had a catfish starter to share. It tasted nice, but the texture of the fish was too soft for my liking.

We took a slow walk back to where we boarded our steamboat, the Natchez, for a dinner cruise on the Mississippi. We were stopped to have our photos taken as we boarded which of course they print and try to sell you for an exorbitant amount when you leave. Surely they can include the photo into the price and give it to you as a free memento when you leave. After all, they can’t undo the process of printing them.
It was, however, a very pleasant evening, jazz band and all. Unfortunately  our fellow passengers were so loud we could not hear the commentary, so I learnt nothing.  We did get to tour the engine room which pleased David.
Dinner was a buffet and I tasted a chicken and sausage gumbo. I really enjoyed it. Apparently it is all about the roux (it’s the graaaavy!) All the veggies were very sweet, including the green beans, confirming that the 2 main ingredients in American cooking are sugar and bread.

Aaahh moment of the day: Americans and their dogs # (lost count)

What I learnt: I think I have mentioned this before, but I don’t think tipping should be expected as a rule. I find the constant requests or reminders to tip, becomes rather annoying. I wish they would pay the staff more and return to a system where tips were an optional extra paid to “To insure prompt service”
I agree with Hugh Morris, travel news editor for the Telegraph, who wrote in his article, America’s tipping culture is out of control – why should visitors be forced to reward bad service?:  ” When a waiter is friendly, alert and takes a keen interest in your evening they deserve to be thanked financially. Like presents, leaving a tip should be as enjoyable as receiving one. But when the tip is a done-deal before you’ve so much as made eye contact, then a gratuity – no matter how small – can feel begrudged.”

 

 

 

Tues 17 July   13956 steps!

In the morning it was raining, so I did laundry, (again). A little later we took an Uber into town. The driver was a special needs teacher who drives Uber in the holidays to make a little extra cash. She was so friendly, and informative.
Our camp host had put together a very comprehensive description of a free walking tour through Gardens, so we started with that. There are beautiful streets lined with old trees and antebellum houses in a variety of sizes and architectural styles. One of the houses is so large, it takes up an entire block. Guess that’s why they needed so many slaves. The roof was designed to hold rain water for the indoor plumbing. It was a great walk with just enough occasional rain to prevent us dying from the heat. (Note for Emma: last one is actor John Goodman’s house)

 

We then walked passed St Louis Cemetery #1, final home of Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau, but is was already closed. We had no desire to visit a graveyard anyway.
We then took the St Charles streetcar to the end of the line and back. It is oldest operating streetcar in the world and goes on for 13,2 miles. The streetcars still have mahogany seats and brass fittings and the line starts one block away from the French Quarter and goes through uptown New Orleans to the CBD. It was a real treat to be sitting after our long walk and seeing the old mansions and beautiful grounds of the Universities and Zoo.

 

Then it was time for Bourbon Street. Energy and joie de vivre fill the air and your senses are bombarded with sounds, and smells and sights. The road is closed to vehicles, so there are bands playing in the street, mime artists and happy people dancing and mingling around. There are also many groups doing walking tours and horse drawn carriages. There is also a strong police presence. What a delight and I pity the fools who avoid coming here because “it’s dangerous”
We nipped into a small paved area and were lucky enough to find an empty table. David bought drinks. There was a typical jazz quartet playing. They were excellent. We stayed a while and then continued as we had been advised to go to Frenchman Street for supper. Apparently, Bourbon Street fills up with younger tourists late at night, who cannot always control themselves. A bit like 6^thStreet in Austin.

 

We found the recommended restaurant, Adolfo’s. It was tiny, above a crumby looking bar, no live music, but the food was incredible. Their signature sauce is called Ocean sauce and you can have it on anything. It is ridiculously good. You could just eat a bowl of it by itself.

 

We then strolled down Frenchman street. It is also lined with bars and clubs playing live music. We found one that sounded really good and went in. Just after we bought drinks and sat down, the singer announced it was her last song. We finished our drinks and moved to the next bar. Once again, we got there just before the band took a break and passed the tip bucket around.
Chuckle of the day: In the ladies restroom in coffee shop 

What I learnt: Antebellum means before the (Civil) war and teachers worldwide are underpaid.

Mon 16 July –  6793 steps 13 flights
Songs: Major Tom by David Bowie; Me and Bobby McGee by Janis Joplin, House of the Rising Sun by the Animals; Fortune Queen by Cher and too many others to list.

We had about 400miles to go to get to New Orleans, but we decided we had to make a brief stop at the Houston Space Centre. We did a tour and were taken to the mission control room where the moon landing was controlled from. It is like it is in the movies. We climbed 87 steps to get there. There is a lift, but it was only for physically challenged and that’s not me. By now I can do 87 steps in one go, could not have done 88!
We also went to rocket park, where we saw one of the remaining rockets originally intended for the Apollo missions but never used. It is massive. As we know David takes his time in museums, but this one pushed me to my limits. I was more interested in the (very) longhorn cattle outside. Actually the visit was very worth while and the displays in the museum are fascinating. I touched a piece of Mars rock.
You could easily spend a day there.

We drove through edges of Houston and on through Baton Rouge to New Orleans taking the motorway most of the way. At the risk of being boring, the roadways in USA are phenomenal.

We made a detour in Breaux Bridge, renown for its old steel bridge adorned with crawfish. The village itself was more interesting and picturesque than the bridge.

Driving over the bridge spanning the Atchafalaya Basin is amazing. The Basin is the largest wetland and swamp in the USA.  There are 2 parallel bridges, about 18 miles long, At times, they rise to allow barges to go underneath, but basically you drive along a double lane highway through tree tops.
In the drier areas, there is a huge variety of houses, big or small, with lawn or hidden amongst trees. Many have broken down vehicles or other junk around. All along the way, in each settlement we went past, there were churches. More churches than houses, a bit like Swaziland. Sadly, although I am sure it is not intended, one such church headquarters reminded me that the Klu Klux Klan once reeked havoc in Louisiana.

We finally arrived at Jude Travel park and were greeted by the hosts, a very nice couple with lots of cats.
What I learnt: In a state that supposedly celebrates and certainly benefits from the tourism generated by the diversity and the musical heritage of New Orleans, it is sad to read that the KKK still exists.
Observation: Before we left, I sliced up some chicken thighs I had previously grilled for padkos. There is so much meat on them and you only get 1 bone, the size of one of our drumsticks. When you buy chicken thighs in USA, you can feed 4 people with 4 thighs.

Sun 15 July – 6211 steps and a very long, hot cycle
We packed a kitbag to go for a cycle and then a swim followed by lunch. We cycled down to the beach front and then on the seawall and back, a total of about 25 km.
The only problem was that there was absolutely no shade along the way and the sun was beating down. About half way we stopped for an iced drink at some famous landmark, but we were told they were not serving until 12. We has a lousy diet lemonade. After a while I had had enough, so I slowed down thinking David would stop and see I had fallen back and stop! He didn’t, so on we went for at least another 5 kms, passed all the beaches with toilets and life guards. I was not into cycling anywhere else to find a place to change into my costume nor cycling back in a wet costume nor sitting in the sun on the beach.  In fact, I had had enough of everything. Luckily David recognized this and led me home. I drank a gallon of water and collapsed.

Next on our agenda was BBQ. We were told we could not leave Texas without having had Texan barbeque. So we googled a spot with many superb reviews and called the Uber. The driver looked a little unsettled when we gave the address. We found a tiny house, with 1 room, shoddy tables and chairs, covered in plastic, sat down and ordered.  It did have an air conditioner which was very needed. We got the feeling that not a lot of white folk stop to eat there. The food was delicious, but nothing like our braais at home. We had brisket, ribs, sausage and a loaded baked potato, very similar to the meal we had in Chicago. No Texan steaks done on open grill like they sell at home.

We found our way to the trolley that does a tour of the city and then on to Moody Gardens, a resort where we watched a 3D movie about the history of music. It is a very good documentary about how music evolved in different areas of the USA and was appropriate to our tour. I thought the 3 D effects were just an afterthought and totally unnecessary. We got home and had an early night.
David’s question of the day: Why didn’t you switch the battery assist to high and catch up to me?
What I learnt: I am not rational when I and tired and dehydrated.
Glen Campbell’s Galveston is apparently an anti-Vietnam war song.

Sat 14 July   7187 steps
Song: Glen Campbell, Galveston oh Galveston
As a kid at school, one of my favorite poems, by John Masefield, started with the line “I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and the sky.”
That is how I felt after Austin. I looked at the map not sure of where to go next and saw Galveston. Glen Campbell started singing in my head “Galveston, Oh Galveston, I still hear your sea winds blowing.” So that was it and off we set.
There were the usual roadworks outside Houston and I have never seen so many flags. I realized that every car dealer along the way has at least 1 huge flag blowing in the wind.

What a good choice it turned out to be. You cross this bridge to Galveston and it is so pretty. Our campsite was right on the bayou and there was a free concert at Saengerfest Square in downtown Galveston where, for a couple of blocks, you can walk about with drinks in your hand. We popped into a liquor shop and bought 2 cold beers and 2 dinkies of chilled red wine and returned to the square.  It was so chilled, there were chairs and tables available; the band, Campfire Soul, was superb, playing a mix of Blues and Rock. The crowds were relaxed and friendly. Some bring picnics. Some get up and dance. We found 2 empty chairs, sat down, watched the crowds and listened to the music till the band took a break. Then we walked around again. There are horse carriages for tours, a variety of clothing stores, souvenir shops, art galleries and loads of places to eat, all open till late. Remember the sun only sets after 8pm. We had a great meal at Shrimp and Stuff. We walked around some more and came across an ice cream shop with a board saying “Name of the day is Kim.” I went in to ask what that meant and got a free double scoop ice cream which was delicious.

Chuckle of the Day: We stopped for lunch along the way and I ordered the “new boneless buffalo wings.” Not sure what I was expecting, but now know that is just another way of selling nuggets.
What I learnt: Galveston, while in Texas, is not about cowboys. We saw no hats or boots on the square or in the restaurant. It has an island feel and they have had the spirit to recover after having been devasted by Hurricane Ike and then the BP oil spill. If my family would join me, I could live there.

 

Fri 13 July  – 6277 steps; 13 flights, which must have been during our 24km cycle

We set out early and cycled along this awesome pathway and board walk. It was amazing. I wish Joburg city council would build something similar along the spruit. We stopped for a delicious breakfast at a cafe along the way. I am gobsmacked by what I have seen Americans eat for breakfast. A plate of bacon, hash brown and eggs, with toast or biscuits, followed by a plate piled high with flapjacks (pancakes) and maple syrup. We continued on the path and cycled 24km in 2 hours.

That evening, we did not feel like facing the traffic into town, and crowds of 20 year olds, so I did some research and we headed further out of town to a joint called Giddy Up.
From 6pm, WC Clark also known as the Godfather of Austin blues played. He was so good, I bought a CD. We also watched an attractive young couple dance. They knew all the steps and managed to make it look so easy. It was spell binding. Both David and I fell a little in love with them. Unfortunately, we have no photos to show you what i  mean. They didn’t serve any food there, so we walked across to the nearest place to eat, which happened to be a large Mexican restaurant and had a wonderful meal.

When we returned to Giddy Up, the next band was setting up. It was like a time warp. It was more like a singles bar for over 70s. There were cowboys at the bar and groups of ladies sitting at the tables. Each cowboy had their own style of the Texas two-step and circulated amongst the ladies, who somehow managed to follow their lead. David and I sat watching, neither of us had any inclination to join in the dancing. The band played good country music and a good time was had by all. Pleasant as it was, we were tired and went home early.
Highlight of the day: David has agreed to go dancing with me on a regular basis.
What I learnt: My new bicycle is one of the best purchases ever made. I so enjoyed my cycle and I can keep up with David, even up the hills.

 

Thurs 12 July – 14899 steps
We used the morning to catch up on sleep, housework, laundry etc. I do miss the laundry genius of Norah Matsabula. Stains do not come out in a 30 minute wash cycle. What is “permanent press” setting anyway?
Later, we set off to 6^th Street and on Nicola’s advice we went to Easy Tiger for a pint and a charcuterie platter. Very good, thanks Nix. Then we walked down the length of 6^th street. Even though it was still early, it was busy. David found a warning sign that he thinks should be appropriate for Dave’s Cave. We walked on to the Capitol building and did the self-guided tour. Texas has a history that is as interesting as California’s.

We went back downtown and on to the White Horse which is on the other end of 6th Street. A marathon walk! We passed food trucks and a lot of construction. I am amazed that all the buildings are wood panelling on a steel structure. There was one old man sitting on his porch in one of the few remaining houses on the street.

By this time, we were hungry again and as they only have a taco stand at the White Horse, we went across the road to an Italian restaurant where a jazz trio was playing on the patio. Very inviting atmosphere. Avoiding pasta and pizza, we both ordered the rack of lamb chops. Well, there was nothing American about the portion size. Some fool had also trimmed the chops into such small lollipops, there was very little meat and definitely no fat. They were served with roasted fennel and pea puree. We filled up on bread, olive oil but no butter. So much for avoiding carbs!

We went back to the White Horse and had a wonderful jol, dancing the night away. I was told to keep my shoes on, but that did not cramp my style too much. David got a quick waltz lesson from a lady who belongs to what I imagine is a group of professional dancers hired to keep the dancing going. While all the rest were doing the Texas Two–step, David and I were doing our own boere-orkes sokkie thing.

Chuckle of the day: Has to be David’s face at the sight of the lamb chops.
What I learnt: Never order New Zealand Lamb in an Italian restaurant in Austin, Texas.
PS. If anyone reading this, knew or remembers Aunty Teddie, she was definitely a Texan governor in a previous life.